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Weapon Types

Rapiers | Daggers | Broadswords | Smallswords | Cutlasses | Axes | Bucklers | Scabbards & Hangers | Rentals | Everything Else

Rapiers Next Topic

This sword was developed as a civilian sidearm, starting from very basic designs to extremely elaborate. Originally a cut and thrust weapon to be used on an unarmored opponent it was an elegant weapon that achieved a high standard of beauty, along with functionality. It was eventually superceded by the smallsword in the early 18th century. The swept hilt cross guard style was also placed on heavier blades for use on the battlefield.

Blade types:
Full size: Triplette Zamorano $100, Del Tin $140, when I can get them. Tapering, flattened diamond section, about ¾” wide at the shoulders, 3/8” at the point. Closest in weight and look to the antique weapons but not nearly as fast or easy to control as Epee or Schlaeger hilted rapiers. Heavier and tougher to slow down.

Canelure Blade: full size straight blade, oval section, two off set fullers running almost the full length of the blade. I modify this blade with a slight taper. Point heavy. Hardly used now that there are good, tapering, full sized blades. $80

Schlager blade: developed for bizarre German military fencing, the schlaeger is a straight narrow blade with an oval section. About a half inch wide down the whole blade and pretty stiff. They are lighter than the full sized but still enough steel to catch light nicely onstage. Very popular. $80

Extra Wide Epee Blade: Triplette Competition Arms puts out a nice wide stiff Epee. Triangle cross section, very light and fast. Doesn’t show up well onstage and likes to fall out of hangers because so it is so blade light / handle heavy. Elaborate hilts can over power this blade visually. Easy to maneuver and cheapest at around $60.


Many hilt styles: Full hilts, ¾ hilts, ½ hilts, ¼ hilts, cup hilts, papenheimer, bilbo to name a few. See my research for details.


Rapiers were often built with a matching dagger for the left hand.

Daggers Next TopicPrevious TopicBack to the Top

In medieval times, this was a weapon of last resort, built as a small crosshilt sword. There are about a billion different styles. In the renaissance, the dagger was often used in the left hand with the rapier in the opposite hand. Some dagger blades approached the length of a short sword. Often the design matched the rapier. I tend to do smallish dagger handles because I haven’t seen any rapier/dagger sets with identically sized hilts. Daggers are always smaller, implying that the hand rode up over the pommel when gripped. 4 blades:

Atlanta Cutlery Arkansas Toothpick. $20 flattened diamond cross section, I have to cut down and grind it to more dagger like proportions. Can be fullered. Blade length about 12”.

AFS large dirk blade. Flattened hexagon section. 12”, very nice, but pricier. About $35.

Full size Main Gauche. Another AFS. Almost 18” long, cutouts, flattened diamond. A lot more expensive, around $60.

Atlanta Cutlery Dirk Blade. Flat triangle section. Re ground very dirk-esque shape, but very stiff and $15.

Daggers start at $135 and up.

Broadsword Next TopicPrevious TopicBack to the Top

Also known as crosshilt-sword, it was the standard knightly war weapon of the Middle Ages through the renaissance. There are many different sizes and hilt styles, from 2 ½ foot shortswords to 5 ½ foot 2 handers. The main types I make are Modified out of AFS Hand and a half blades, cut and retapered and occasionally fullered. Tapering and fullering effect the balance point of the weapon, getting it closer to the hands so it s faster and safer. I tend to keep my handles a bit on the long side to improve the handling.

Shortsword: 2 foot blade, side arm for unarmed knights, and archers and billmen.

Single Hand: about 36” overall, 30” blade. Standard knightly sidearm.

Hand and a Half/ Bastard sword: Designed to be used with one hand or two, long handled, it is used on stage to represent a two hand sword because the 5 to 6 foot true two hander needs lots of room and are difficult to control safely.

Two Hand Swords: 5 to 6 feet in length. 12 to 18 inch handles. Only one I can get for these and the blade starts at $175 and is a bit whippy.

All types of broadsword start at $350 and up. I can get nice Del tin or Museum replicas blades but they can get expensive.

Smallsword Next TopicPrevious TopicBack to the Top

Gentleman’s personal civilian weapon of the eighteenth century, through the Napoleonic Wars. A small, light weight beautiful weapon design for thrusting and little slashy cuts. These swords became so ornate to the extent of becoming male jewelry. Mine are simpler, but I can do more elaborate plate piercing and chiseling if the customer desires.

Triplette Comp. Arms Extra Wide Epee: cut down to 30 to 32 inches long.

Starting at $350. These are my specialty.

Cutlasses & Claymores Next TopicPrevious TopicBack to the Top

Cutlasses were single handed short broadswords, usually curved with a single edge, designed for shipboard close combat. They often had elaborate basket hilts or shell guards. I have used cut down curved sabre blades from AFS, or Museum Replicas Falchions or cutlasses, that I rehilt. This style of hilt is very time consuming to construct and blades other than the sabre can be hard to come by and expensive. Claymores are a Scottish version of a single handed broadsword with many styles of elaborate basket hand guard. They were in use from the 1600’s up and through the Napoleonic Wars.

Starting at $450.

Axes Next TopicPrevious TopicBack to the Top

The stage combat axe is a tough engineering problem as impact weapons like axes, war hammers, and maces were looking to have as much weight as possible at the point of percussion. This is dangerous onstage as it is difficult to slow down these types of weapons if your partner forgets their choreography. I try to make my axes as light as possible. Cutouts in the blades, hollow hammer heads, and slightly under sizing them, are all techniques I use to lose weight, while keeping the looks of the originals. All blades are of high carbon steel and thus sound wicked as they hit metal. Shafts are of ash, like the originals. This is a straight grained hardwood with good flexibility, thus more resistant to shattering. I do killer pole axes also, the longer versions of these weapons.

Starting at $150.

Bucklers Next TopicPrevious TopicBack to the Top

These are small single handed shields used in the Middle Ages through the renaissance. Mine are hand hammered 16 gauge steel rimmed with 3/16” round. There are several different styles: Round (convex, concave, with a boss, or with reinforcing pieces with rivets) and 2 different Moroso curved rectangles. (Best to just look at the pictures of this kind)

Starting at $150.

Scabbards & Hangers Next TopicPrevious TopicBack to the Top

I can build these, but frankly, I hate to, so I charge through the nose. Prices vary with my mood and amount of swords currently in line. Call, be nice and butter me up.

Rentals Next TopicPrevious TopicBack to the Top

I have a small stock of weapons for rent. The going rate is $10 per week per sword. You pay for the shipping. Lead time is a good idea.

Anything Else You Can Think Of... Previous TopicBack to the Top

Being a props artisan by trade allows me to attempt almost anything, just ask. I have done sword canes, sword umbrellas, switchblade samurai swords, fake working crossbows, blood daggers, salon targets, etc. They just cost a lot, and I need quite a lot of lead time. If you have an idea, run it by me. Sometimes, I just can’t resist a cool project.

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